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Kalam\u0131\u015f \u0130skelesi’nden gelip Kad\u0131k\u00f6y-H.Pa\u015fa-Galata K\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc’ne gidecek vapur Moda \u0130skelesi’ne yakla\u015f\u0131rken, Kalam\u0131\u015f-Caddebostan-Suadiye-Bostanc\u0131-Adalar seferini yapacak olan vapur Moda \u0130skelesi\u2019nden hareket etmeye haz\u0131rlanmakta, 1940′. (R Serta\u00e7 Kayserilio\u011flu koleksiyonu)<\/p><\/div>\n
\u0130stanbul\u2019un Anadolu Yakas\u0131… Bir d\u00f6\u00adnemlerin Kalam\u0131\u015f\u2019\u0131yla Fenerbah\u00ad\u00e7e\u2019siyle, Caddebostan\u2019\u0131 Suadi\u00adye\u2019si Moda\u2019s\u0131 ile \u0130stanbul\u2019un adeta r\u00fcya beldesi… Reng\u00e2renk \u00e7i\u00e7eklerle bezen\u00admi\u015f bah\u00e7elerinde havuzlar\u0131n\u0131n pinpon toplu f\u0131skiyelerinden sular\u0131n f\u0131\u015fk\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131, \u00e7amlar\u0131ndan salk\u0131m s\u00f6\u00ad\u011f\u00fctlerinden k\u00f6\u015fklerine g\u00f6lgelerin d\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc\u011f\u00fc y\u00f6re\u2026 Kat kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131 arsa ev al\u0131m sat\u0131mlar\u0131n\u0131n daha ba\u015flamad\u0131\u011f\u0131, i\u00e7ilesi sular\u0131ndan denize girildi\u011fi, \u00e7evre kirli\u00adli\u011fi diye bir olgunun ise hen\u00fcz bilinmedi\u011fi d\u00f6nemlerin Kad\u0131k\u00f6y yakas\u0131. Ve de bu yakan\u0131n bir vazge\u00e7ilmezi; Moda semti\u2026<\/p>\n
68 ku\u015fa\u011f\u0131 y\u0131llar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n o unutulmaz g\u00fcnlerinde, Anadolu Yakas\u0131\u2019nda isek ve de can\u0131m\u0131z \u0130stanbul\u2019u ve Bo\u011faz\u2019\u0131n\u0131 panoromik izlemek istedi\u011finde \u00c7aml\u0131ca\u2019ya \u00e7\u0131kar, arabalar\u0131m\u0131zla caka satmak istersek Fener\u2019de turlar, denize kar\u015f\u0131 biraz efk\u00e2r da\u011f\u0131tmak istedi\u011fimizde ise Bomonti ya da Moda Burnu\u2019na ko\u015fard\u0131k.\u00a0 O Moda Burnu ki; bir taraf\u0131ndan Moda Plaj\u0131 \u00fczerinden \u201cBir tatl\u0131 huzur\u201d koyuna a\u00e7\u0131lan Fenerbah\u00e7e\u2019sini, di\u011fer taraf\u0131ndan ise Sarayburnu \u00fczerinden ona d\u00fcn bir tepeden bakt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z\u00a0 \u201cAziz \u0130stanbul\u201duna a\u00e7\u0131lan o doyumsuz manzaray\u0131 yakalayan yeg\u00e2ne belde\u2026<\/p>\n
Yaz aylar\u0131 bir ba\u015fka olurdu Kad\u0131k\u00f6y yakas\u0131… \u0130stanbul yakas\u0131n\u0131n sayfiyeye buraya ta\u015f\u0131nd\u0131\u011f\u0131 bu mevsimde, Kad\u0131\u00adk\u00f6y\u2019den Bostanc\u0131\u2019ya Fenerbah\u00e7e\u2019ye ve Moda\u2019ya kadar, kenarlar\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131k, yanlar\u0131 tenteli s\u00fcsl\u00fc vagonlar \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131rd\u0131. \u00c7i\u00e7eklerle bezenmi\u015f bah\u00e7eli k\u00f6\u015fkler aras\u0131ndan Moda\u2019ya gitmek i\u00e7in o yaza \u00f6zel a\u00e7\u0131k tramvaylarla yap\u0131lacak bu g\u00fczel yolculuk u\u011fruna s\u0131rf duraklarda bekleyen \u00f6zel m\u00fc\u015fterilere rastlamak,\u00a0 Kad\u0131k\u00f6y yakam\u0131z yaz ak\u015fam\u00fcstlerinin s\u0131kl\u0131kla kar\u015f\u0131la\u015f\u0131\u00adlan manzaralar\u0131ndan idi.<\/p>\n
Vapur \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015f\u0131 ile yolculara durak, okul da\u011f\u0131l\u0131\u015flar\u0131 ile de talebelere bulu\u015fma yeri olan Kad\u0131k\u00f6y \u0130skele Meydan\u0131\u2019nda, akasya a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131n\u0131n ku\u015f c\u0131v\u0131lt\u0131lar\u0131 alt\u0131ndaki duraklar\u0131nda s\u0131ra s\u0131ra yerlerini alan tramvaylardan 20 numaral\u0131 \u201cModa Tramvay\u0131\u201d\u00a0 ile yolumuza revan oluyoruz. \u015eimdinin \u201cHaldun Taner Tiyatrosu\u201d olan ve o zamanlar\u0131n \u201cSebze Hali\u201dnin \u00f6n\u00fcndeki kaviste raylar\u0131n g\u0131c\u0131rt\u0131lar\u0131 aras\u0131nda \u00c7ar\u015f\u0131 dura\u011f\u0131na d\u00f6n\u00fcp, sonra o mis gibi halka ve de susam kokular\u0131n\u0131n geldi\u011fi ah\u015fap \u201c\u00c7ar\u015f\u0131 F\u0131r\u0131n\u0131\u201dn\u0131 ge\u00e7ip, \u00e7an sesleri ile esnaf\u0131 sel\u00e2mlay\u0131p, Alt\u0131yol\u2019un tatl\u0131 yoku\u015funu t\u0131rman\u0131yoruz bu kent mobilyas\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcndeki kutu tramvay\u0131m\u0131z ile…<\/p>\n
\u015eimdiki Bo\u011fa\u2019n\u0131n oldu\u011fu yerde \u00f6zel sepet kabini i\u00e7inde duran trafik polisinin yan\u0131ndan sa\u011fa Bahariye\u2019ye sinemalar yoku\u015funa k\u0131vr\u0131l\u0131p, \u00f6nce Opera sonra S\u00fcreyya ve nihayet Yurt sinemalar\u0131n\u0131 ge\u00e7ip, Bahariye \u0130lkokulu\u2019ndan sola Moda\u2019ya do\u011fru d\u00f6n\u00fcp, iki katl\u0131 ah\u015fap k\u00f6\u015fklerin aras\u0131ndan Kad\u0131k\u00f6y K\u0131z Lisesi\u2019ni de ge\u00e7erek, Moda\u2019ya var\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n
Moda son durakta inip, mis gibi yosun ko\u00adkulu Moda Plaj\u0131 ya da Moda \u0130skele kenar\u0131nda, bal\u0131klar\u0131 elle tutulas\u0131 sulara sahip berrak sahilinde, ya da Bomonti\u2019nin sala\u015f \u00e7ay bah\u00e7esinde bir ak\u015fam \u00e7ay\u0131 i\u00e7ip, g\u00fcn batmadan ayn\u0131 g\u00fczellikleri seyrede seyrede tekrar geri d\u00f6nmek, Kad\u0131k\u00f6y\u00adl\u00fclerin al\u0131\u015fa geldikleri ihtiya\u00e7lar\u0131ndan idi o y\u0131llar i\u00e7in\u2026<\/p>\n
G\u00fcn\u00fcn bat\u0131\u015f\u0131 ve mehtab\u0131n \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015f\u0131 en man\u00e2l\u0131 olarak Moda Burnu\u2019nun Rainbow Oteli \u00f6n\u00fcndeki tahta oturma bank\u0131n\u0131n \u0130stanbul taraf\u0131na bakan k\u00f6\u015fesinden izlenmekte\u2026 Moda Kul\u00fcb\u00fc taraf\u0131ndaki di\u011fer k\u00f6\u015fe ise, denizin b\u00fct\u00fcn enginli\u011fi ile kar\u015f\u0131n\u0131zda y\u00fckseldi\u011fi Kurbal\u0131dere\u2019den Kalam\u0131\u015f\u2019a, Kalam\u0131\u015f\u2019tan Fener\u2019e do\u011fru g\u00f6z al\u0131c\u0131 bir alt\u0131n par\u0131lt\u0131s\u0131nda titre\u015fip durdu\u011fu koy adeta\u2026<\/p>\n
40\u2019l\u0131 50\u2019li y\u0131llar\u0131n Moda\u2019s\u0131, M\u00fch\u00fcrdar \u00fczerinden Kad\u0131k\u00f6y\u2019e, ya da Cevizlik \u00fczerinden Kalam\u0131\u015f\u2019a do\u011fru bah\u00e7eli k\u00f6\u015fklerinin yanyana s\u0131raland\u0131\u011f\u0131 da bir y\u00f6re… Bu b\u00f6lge, Kad\u0131k\u00f6yl\u00fc edebiyat\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131n toplant\u0131 yeri olmas\u0131ndan \u00f6te, onlar\u0131n kitap ve a\u015fklar\u0131na da ilham kayna\u011f\u0131 olacak gezinti ve duygulanma alan\u0131 o zamanlarda.<\/p>\n
\u0130\u015fte; Moda \u0130skelesi\u2019ne yana\u015fan bir g\u00fczel vapur, kar\u015f\u0131 \u0130stanbul\u2019dan gelen yolcular\u0131n\u0131 indirmekte\u2026 Olduk\u00e7a sayg\u0131n bir ortamda yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f yolculukla evlerine d\u00f6nmenin keyfi i\u00e7indeki Moda sakinleri, \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015fta k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck karton biletleri toplayan \u015f\u0131k giyimli iskele memurunun tan\u0131d\u0131k sel\u00e2ml\u0131 ho\u015f tebess\u00fcm\u00fc aras\u0131nda evlerine da\u011f\u0131lmakta…<\/p>\n
Az sonra, ayn\u0131 koydaki dost iskelesi \u201cKalam\u0131\u015f \u0130skelesi\u201dne ve ard\u0131ndan da s\u0131ras\u0131 ile; Caddebostan, Suadiye ve Bostanc\u0131 iskelelerine di\u011fer yolcular\u0131n\u0131 teslim etmek \u00fczere hareket eden bu beyaz ku\u011fu, \u00e7evre evlerden ve Moda Kul\u00fcb\u00fc balkonlar\u0131ndan kaptan k\u00f6\u015fk\u00fcne y\u00f6nelmi\u015f dostane el sallamalar\u0131 aras\u0131nda yoluna revan olmakta…<\/p>\n
Ne var ki; \u0130stanbul\u2019un en g\u00fczel y\u0131llar\u0131n\u0131 ya\u015fad\u0131klar\u0131 o 40\u2019l\u0131 50\u2019li y\u0131llar\u0131n ard\u0131ndan ba\u015flayan yo\u011fun g\u00f6\u00e7 hareketinin do\u011furdu\u011fu mek\u00e2n ihtiyac\u0131, Moda ve civar\u0131ndaki o can\u0131m k\u00f6\u015fkleri, konaklar\u0131 ve de tek katl\u0131 evleri toz duman i\u00e7inde sokaklar boyunca kald\u0131r\u0131mlar \u00fczerine serecektir. Zira; \u201c\u015ei\u015fli\u2019de Bir Apart\u0131man\u201d dizeleri operet na\u011fmeleri aras\u0131nda duyulmaya ba\u015f\u00adlanm\u0131\u015f, \u00a0bu \u00e7ok katl\u0131 yeni beton binalar\u0131 ise g\u00f6z g\u00f6rm\u00fc\u015f g\u00f6n\u00fcl de sevmi\u015ftir art\u0131k.<\/p>\n
Bah\u00e7e i\u00e7inde tek katl\u0131 ev ya da konaklardaki o eski can\u0131m e\u015fyalar eskicilere\u00a0 \u201c\u015ei\u015felere Mandal\u201d misali verilirken,\u00a0 apartman dairelerini Avrupai e\u015f\u00adyalarla dayan\u0131p d\u00f6\u015femek moda olmaya, Tepeba\u015f\u0131\u2019ndaki mobilyac\u0131lar\u0131n say\u0131lar\u0131 ise h\u0131zla artmaya ba\u015flam\u0131\u015ft\u0131r gayri\u2026<\/p>\n
Derken; bir yeni milenyumu g\u00f6r\u00fcr bu g\u00f6zler\u2026 Art\u0131k; ne\u00a0 Moda \u0130skele\u2019sine yana\u015fan o vapurlardan bir iz,\u00a0 ne de iskelesinde inen o g\u00fczel insanlar\u0131ndan eser vard\u0131r.\u00a0 O \u00e7ocukluk y\u0131llar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n Ba\u011fdat Cadde\u00adsi\u2019nde, Fenerbah\u00e7e\u2019sinde, Moda\u2019s\u0131nda g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcz;\u00a0 akasyal\u0131 yollar\u0131n iki yan\u0131n\u0131 kaplayan \u00e7i\u00e7ekli, heykelli bah\u00e7eler i\u00e7indeki geni\u015f sa\u00e7akl\u0131, ah\u015fap panjurlu, reng\u00e2renk k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck caml\u0131 cumbal\u0131 k\u00f6\u015fklerine art\u0131k sadece siyah beyaz filmlerin karelerinde rastlamak, be\u00adton y\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 y\u00fckseltileri aras\u0131nda ye\u015file hasret y\u00fcrekleri\u00ad daraltmaktad\u0131r g\u00fcn be g\u00fcn… \u0130skele taraf\u0131nda z\u0131playan karideslerle vapurun sancak taraf\u0131ndan g\u00f6z k\u0131rpan g\u00fcm\u00fc\u015f bal\u0131klar\u0131 ise, \u015fimdilerde kimbilir hangi koydad\u0131r zaar?<\/p>\n
Gelece\u011fe, sadece b\u00fcy\u00fck yap\u0131tlar\u0131n; S\u00fcleymaniye, Sultanahmet, Yeni Cami gibi zaten korunan yap\u0131lar\u0131n kal\u00admas\u0131n\u0131n yeterli olmayaca\u011f\u0131 kan\u0131s\u0131nday\u0131m. Her \u00e7a\u011fda k\u00fclt\u00fcrlere mer\u00adkezlik etmi\u015f bu g\u00fczel kentin, ge\u00e7\u00admi\u015fle ba\u011f\u0131n\u0131 sa\u011flayan asude \u00f6rnekleri; k\u00f6\u015fklerini, vapur iskelelerini, tren istasyonlar\u0131n\u0131, hatta ve hatta Haydarpa\u015fa\u2019s\u0131n\u0131 bile tarihe g\u00f6mebilen zihniyetlere, en az\u0131ndan bu hat\u0131ralar\u0131m ad\u0131na hakk\u0131m\u0131 haram etmek ge\u00e7iyor i\u00e7imden… Ve de onun i\u00e7indir ki bir s\u00f6z\u00fc \u00e7ok seviyorum;\u00a0 \u201cYetmez ama Allah belan\u0131z\u0131 versin!\u201d<\/p>\n
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<\/a>1900’l\u00fc y\u0131llar\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131nda \u0130sve\u00e7li levantenlerden Moda’da ya\u015fayan Landgrebe ailesinin k\u00f6\u015fk\u00fc; 1910’\u2026 (R. Serta\u00e7 Kayserilio\u011flu koleksiyonu)<\/p><\/div>\n
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<\/a>![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.anadoluyakasi.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/11\/43-480x656.jpg\" "\\"4\\"")
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